Common questions › Studs & breeding
The short answer
Three words: everything, time and data. A good stud has the full package (health, structure, functionality, temperament), and he's had the time to prove he passes it on: healthy puppies that grow up into healthy, well-built adults.
Before you use one, see him from the side with his mouth closed (no underbite), see him move, and see his grown offspring. A dog can look great and still not pass it on. Don't cut corners.
Everyone asks what makes a good mini bulldog stud. Most people think it's the head, the structure, the size, the color, the pedigree, how cute the puppies are, the movement. It's three words: everything, time, data. And none of them are negotiable.
Everything: the structure, the functionality, the movement, the temperament with other dogs, people and kids, the chest, the leg length, how the legs and joints line up so he moves well, a back length that keeps the hips from sitting too high. Does he move well, run well, go up stairs? It all has to be in one package.
Time and data: nothing replaces time. The years a stud has been producing give you the data. Is he producing healthy puppies at birth? Do they grow up with the temperament and structure he has? Sometimes a stud has all the attributes but doesn't pass them on, because he doesn't carry enough of the dominant traits.
From the data: do I have adult dogs from this stud that are healthy, living long, breathing well, good with kids? Is he producing true minis and micros, true functional dogs? You can't cheat the data without time.
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Just because you see this doesn't mean you're getting this. A common trick in the bulldog world: only showing a stud with his mouth open, so you can't see the underbite. Or only showing him from the front, so you can't see his side profile and his back.
Before you pick a stud, see him with his mouth closed, from the side, and make sure the underbite doesn't stick out. That's when you see the true bite. You don't want an underbite passed on to your puppies, and a puppy can show it later even if it doesn't at first.
Use a proven producer with a clean muzzle. Look at DaMilkMan from the side, mouth closed: no underbite, flat face, clean muzzle. None of our studs has that flaw, because it would be passed on.
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There are two main proofs of a good stud. One: does he have everything you want, down to the little details in each category? Health, structure, functionality and temperament each have dozens of sub-categories.
Two: is he producing it? A dog can be really good and his offspring not. Maybe he doesn't carry the dominant traits, or his mom, dad, grandpa and great-grandpa had so many weaknesses that those show up more than the good things.
An ethical stud owner will have multiple examples of what he produces, and will usually keep offspring from an amazing stud. That's why I show you Fury and also his sons, daughters and grandkids.
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This might surprise people, but I've turned down a lot of breedings. When you work with dogs like these and you have pride in them, you don't breed to any female that comes your way. It's not about the money. It's about not watering down the bloodlines.
When I match a male with a female, mine or someone else's, I look at overall health and functionality, temperament, health testing, the pedigree and the quality of the dogs behind them, and overall structure. None of it can be overlooked. That's what separates real producers from someone with a dog and a Cash App.
Quick clips on the same question. Tap any one and it plays right here.
How do you pick a good English bulldog stud? Everything, plus time, plus data. He should be the full package, and that gets proven with time and with how he produces. Nothing replaces it. Don't cut corners when you pick a stud.
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Tell me about your female, and I'll tell you honestly which stud fits.
Book a stud →Everything from my videos, boiled down to one checklist. Free.
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